Afternoon Tea Tray

Tantalizing sweets include miniature éclairs, custard tarts, handmade chocolates and shortbreads crowned with whole strawberries.

Table With a View

Story and photography by Bruce Richardson

When it comes to the subject of great settings for afternoon tea, it doesn’t get much more spectacular than the snow capped vistas outside the tea room windows of Canada’s pristine Banff National Park.

Tea has been an important part of the daily ritual in this mountaintop wonderland since 1883 when the transcontinental railway reached the formidable Rocky Mountains. The discovery of natural hot springs bubbling from the base of Sulphur Mountain led to the establishment of Canada's first national park, Rocky Mountain Park. Early park rangers would stash their tea and tea equipage in bear proof tins along the rugged trails in order to enjoy a hot cup of tea when working on the coldest of days.

Today, Banff National Park is one of four adjoining mountain parks comprising more than 5,200 square miles of spectacular Canadian Rocky Mountain landscape. Each year, four million international visitors soak in the warm water of those springs and the uninterrupted natural beauty of this World Heritage site.

Two of the crown jewels of the park are Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise and Fairmont Banff Springs. Both were constructed over a century ago as part of the Canadian Pacific Railway’s “ribbon of steel”, built to link Canada's populated centers with the vast potential of its relatively unpopulated West. William Cornelius Van Horne, general manager of Canadian Pacific Railway was often quoted as saying “Since we can't export the scenery, we'll have to import the tourists.” Sixteen fantastic European inspired palaces attracted countless well-to-do tourists who traveled in plush railway coaches from one beautiful chateau to another until they finally reached the grand Empress Hotel in Victoria, British Columbia.

The largest community within Banff National Park is the town of Banff, 90 minutes west of Calgary via the Trans Canada Highway. The community shares its space with the wildlife as elk, sheep and bear sightings are common here. The streets of Banff are filled with small shops that offer a mosaic of uniquely Canadian shopping opportunities. Several highlight the work of aboriginal artists and artisans, an integral part of Banff's Rocky Mountain heritage. Similarly, the many art galleries in the area celebrate the mountain artwork of local and Canadian artists.

One of the most aromatic indulgences along Banff Avenue is Natur’el. This teahouse, spa, and boutique, founded by Jolene Brewster, blends and packages over 50 mostly organic teas and tea blends carefully selected from the best tea plantations in the world. Her forte is her ability to formulate soothing herbal infusions with interesting titles such as Women’s Health, Digestive Health, and The Common Cold. Step up to Jolene’s tea bar and choose your own teacup. A selection of fine china and mugs are available for use while warming up or chilling out in the relaxed tea room, which opens onto Banff’s main street. Don’t leave without sniffing your way through the enticing samples she has throughout the store.

Chateau Banff Springs

The eight hundred room Fairmont Banff Springs sits like a Bavarian castle nestled on a pine-covered mountainside above the town of Banff. It has hosted such legendary dignitaries as Helen Keller, Afternoon Tea at The Fairmont Banff Springs Queen Elizabeth and Benny Goodman. The mountain hideaway is filled with a labyrinth of hallways, ballrooms, lounges, gift shops, fitness centers, and restaurants. The hotel’s world class golf course and nearby ski slopes make this retreat an ideal getaway in any season of the year.

The historic hotel has recently added the 38,000 square foot Willow Stream Spa that includes cascading water pools, inhalation rooms, massage, indoor/outdoor pools, and fireplace offering never-ending cups of Fairmont Willow Spa Teas. It’s not surprising that this tranquil oasis has been named one of the top ten spas in the world.

Afternoon tea has long been a tradition in this European-inspired chateau. Tea is served today in the Arundel Lounge with its full window views of the golf course and Arundel Mountain range. Tea here can be as simple or sophisticated as you wish. You may want to simply enjoy a selection of scones with jam and a pot of Fairmont Banff Springs tea while watching the clouds roll across the mountain peaks, or spend the afternoon working your way through the complete afternoon tea that includes all the usual sandwiches and sweets. If you linger long enough, you might be lucky enough to spy the herd of elk that make their way across the golf course every afternoon as the sun begins to sink behind the snow-capped mountains.

Chateau Lake Louise

Chateau Lake Louise sits on the shore of the azure blue Lake Louise, only 50 minutes from Banff. The postcard setting is perfectly framed with emerald green forests and snowcapped mountains that glisten under a dramatic Canadian sky. This was once a hideaway for Fairbanks and Fairmont Lake Louise Barrymore, Monroe and Hitchcock. The architecture was influenced by the villa designs of the Italian Renaissance. Residents may spend the day skiing, fly-fishing, hiking, canoeing or simply reading a book while tucked away in one of the second floor alcoves.

The highlight of the day for tea lovers is afternoon tea in the Lakeview Lounge. The preferred tables for two are each framed by a Palladian window allowing an uninterrupted alpine-like view of the lake and mountains. The only temptations that draw your attention from this stunning natural vista are the beautiful savories and sweets designed by the hotel’s chefs.

Afternoon tea begins with a colorful compote of fresh fruit. The tiered server soon appears bearing a creative array of tea sandwiches such as cucumber, smoked salmon, egg on wheat and chicken with mango pinwheels. Perfect English scones are served with a bountiful supply of clotted cream and preserves. The tantalizing sweets include miniature éclairs, custard tarts, handmade chocolates and shortbreads crowned with whole strawberries.

The selection of teas is highlighted by the Fairmont Blend and other traditional teas blended by Canada’s Metropolitan Tea Company. An optional flute of champagne tops the afternoon off with one more bit of sparkle. The only problem here is that you don’t want to leave this sunny setting where staring out the window is relaxing and, thankfully, encouraged.

Lake Agnes Teahouse

The mountains framing Lake Louise are crisscrossed with hiking trails. One of the favorite routes is the Lake Agnes Trail that begins at the rear of the hotel and climbs a thousand feet to the glacier fed Lake Agnes. A 90-minute walk will bring you to a glorious tea respite, unlike any you have seen.

Built around 1900, the log chalet Lake Agnes teahouse hugs the shore of this emerald lake. Be warned! This is not a tea room for red hats and lace gloves. There is no electricity. The chalet is warmed by a wood stove and lit by kerosene lamps. In fact, this may be the only tea room you have visited that has an outhouse.

Owner Cynthia Magee rebuilt the teahouse after purchasing it from the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1981. It is so remote that supplies are brought in by helicopters or horseback and her hardworking staff lives onsite in another small cabin.

The simple menu includes soup, sandwiches, tea biscuits, and homemade pastries. What’s most amazing about this sanctuary is an amazing assortment of 50 loose teas from all over the world. Tea water is heated in six huge kettles that continually simmer on a mammoth gas stove in the kitchen. It takes a lot of heat to boil water at an elevation of 8000 feet. And tea has never tasted as good as when drunk here on a cold and snowy day in late September.

The trek to Lake Agnes can be exhausting and more than a few out-of-breath adventurers turn back to the comfort of their hotel room. How sad to think that they missed the reward that lies at the end of their journey. Good things come to those who persevere. Just think about the incredible story – and photographs – you will have to share with your tea friends when you return home!

Lake Agnes is not a tea room for red hats and lace gloves!

Tea Time Magazine May 2008

This article first appeared in the May/June 2008 edition of TeaTime magazine. Copyrighted material.

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Following the success of his colorful Great Tea Rooms of Britain, Bruce Richardson has crafted a stunning collection of color photographs and recipes from 20 outstanding tea venues across The United States and Canada. This large format hardcover book contains over 175 color photographs and lots of touring suggestions!

Four new tea rooms appear in the 2008 edition. Bruce has added a Great Tea Shops section and 20 pages of recipes appear in their own chapter.