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Le Grands Salons de Th�  � Paris

Story and photography by Bruce Richardson

Paris is a city that never disappoints me. Every arrondissement is a treasure chest waiting to be opened, sniffed, consumed and remembered. I gaze longingly into boulangerie windows, wander through outdoor markets, and relish the daily menus hastily chalked onto boards posted outside caf�s.

Fortunately, it�s an easy city to walk. If you�re like me, you�ll need to burn off those decadent calories you consume while satisfying your hunger for the most delicious city in the world. The long climb up Montmartre from the Moulin Rouge to the cathedral Sacr� Coeur is one of the best workouts for shedding those buttery excesses.

For those of us addicted to the leaf of the Camellia sinensis, the great consolation is that we are never more than a short stroll from a salon de th�!  And there are all those enticing p�tisseries to be sampled...a g�teau of this, a tarte of that, a croissant with honey, another madeleine, a dozen boxed meringues to take home, or a pain au chocolat to leave a sweet taste on the tongue. Why are these people so thin?

With their innate sense of style and creativity, the French have elevated the act of taking tea to a refined art form. They treat tea with the same respect and attention to detail they reserve for all endeavors, whether culinary, fashion, or the visual arts.

In this capital of sophistication, the ancient beverage is skillfully brewed and paired with foods that can only be described as �too beautiful to eat.�  The French understand better than anyone that presentation is as important as taste in the culinary world.

France was one of the first European countries to adopt this Asian brew. Tea has never been as synonymous to French culture as it is to British routine. Tea in Great Britain is often taken for granted; the country has a set pattern for brewing a few well-known teas. But the French are more open to finding and embracing the best teas and tea traditions from around the world. Tea salons in Paris have some of the most complete tea menus to be found anywhere.

From Paris, I love to take easy day trips to Giverny, Chartres, or Versailles. Good tea can be had in all these locations along with a beautiful plate of fresh pastries or g�teaux. You may be tempted to give up scones forever!

My favorite Parisian museum is the Mus�e D�Orsay with its spectacular collection of impressionist paintings. Housed in a former train station, it is easy to navigate and much less crowded than the Louvre. Plus, it has a beautiful caf� where you can pause for a cup of tea and a plate of madeleines.

Whether you visit the Louvre or the D�Orsay, you�re not far from one of Paris�s oldest and best-known tea salons, Angelina. Since 1903, it has hosted such luminaries as Marcel Proust and Coco Chanel in an elegant setting. The interior is reminiscent of a gilded chocolate box, with its mirrored walls and gold piping, and the pale, lime green fabric lining all the shelves.

While visiting Notre Dame, I suggest you slip into a side street named rue Saint-Louis-en-I�lle for tea or chocolate at a charming little caf� run by a flamboyant woman of a certain age who could probably tell great stories of la vie de boh�me after a carafe or two of wine. La Charlotte de L�isle is a cluttered little fairyland where the most requested cup contains what the New York Times calls �the absinthe of hot chocolate.�

If you find yourself across the Seine from the Eiffel Tower, stop by Carette at Trocadero Place for a 1930�s tea experience accompanied by freshly made madeleines or palmi�res in a relaxed atmosphere. Further west, near Place de Passy, is Th� Cool, a cozy neighborhood salon de th� offering tea in iron Asian pots accompanied by some of the most beautiful desserts you will find this side of Provence.

My other off-the-beaten-path tea haunts are Les Nuits des Th�s where the owner�s dog greets you at the door and joins you at the table - if invited; Place Num�ro Th�, run by a young woman who is passionate in her devotion to tea; Le St�bli, an Austrian bakery with a second floor tea salon and a colorful street market outside the front door; and A Priori Th�, housed under glass in the Galerie Vivienne, a nineteenth-century shopping arcade.

If it�s a combination tea room and tea shop you desire, you can�t beat Mariage Fr�res. With over 500 teas on the menu, this veteran world-class tea purveyor has three locations. Each has endless shelves of tea canisters and an interesting tea museum to keep you occupied while you wait for a table. Be assured, every pot will be perfectly brewed.

Other outstanding tea shops include Th�s de Chine, known for puehrs and artisan teas; Lyne�s, where you will find outstanding Taiwanese oolongs; and Th� O Dor, offering exotic blended and flavored teas in a fascinating shop that long ago housed a creamery.  All are easily accessible via the safe and efficient Paris Metro.

 
My list goes on and on. Paris, like any delicacy, should be savored in petite bites so that you don�t satiate your appetite. There will be more salons de th� during a future visit. They�ve been doing tea correctly here for 375 years, and you know it�s only going to get better!   

The is article first appeared in the March 2007 issue of TeaTime magazine.  Copyrighted material.

Order the only full color guide to tea in Paris.

Le St�bli, an Austrian bakery with a second floor tea salon in the heart of one of the great outdoor markets of Paris.

Carette at Trocadero Place offers a great 1930's tea experience and a great view of the Eiffel Tower.

Your guides to seeing the city with tea on your mind!

Tea in the City: New York

Tea in the City: London

Tea in the City: Paris

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Benjamin Press
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Tea writer, Bruce Richardson, and veteran photographer, John Gentry, have fulfilled their quest for finding the Great Tea Rooms of Britain. With the assistance of The British Tea Council and its outstanding Guild of Tea Shops, they have put together a fascinating collection of color photographs, narrative, touring tips, and recipes from 22 memorable tea rooms in England, Scotland and Wales.

Tea lovers who dream of visiting Britain, as well as seasoned travelers, will find this book a valuable guide in planning their next adventure through the British countryside. Hardcover. 2008 edition.